Saturday, September 30, 2006

Why Ireland? Why now?

I am asked these questions quite often and, lately, I have taken great pleasure in saying, "I'm not sure, but it was the right choice" or something to that effect. Sometimes this is met with confusion; sometimes a postgraduate will smile knowingly.

Today I spent most of the day with Gabriella, but we didn't work on the conference for a large portion of the day. We worked and then went to lunch. And we stayed at that restaurant for four hours talking away, sharing stories about our lives and how we've reached the current moment. When we left the restaurant, we walked around Trinity as we continued the conversation. After we were cold and damp and a little hungry, we went for sushi and stayed almost until they closed.

In our conversations, I found myself articulating an aspect of this journey that I hadn't really been able to name. Or hadn't been ready to name. I could identify that part of it was my own relationship to my Irish heritage and understanding the roots and realities of my Irishness. The part I hadn't really discussed was how much of my awareness of Irish culture in my family has come through family funerals and, most profoundly, the death of my grandmother.

Since I arrived in Dublin one month ago, already I have discovered an analysis of Martin McDonagh's works in which the author wrestles with the appreciation of and aversion to this playwright's works (The Lenane Trilogy among others). In this essay, John Waters discusses the phenomenon of Irish forced to leave their communities (due to food and job shortages) and in this forced dis/relocation, it was as if they became a time capsule of culture, living a remembered Ireland in their new homes. So while Ireland has continued to grow and change, there are remnants of this older culture in other countries and communities, remnants that reflect old ways and values that may not be prevalent today in Ireland. He questions the kitchification of Irishness and the old ways while acknowledging that there are individuals living outside of Ireland (perhaps who've never lived there, but were raised by this dislocated Irish community) with stronger accents than someone who does live there. (This is an extremely condensed and not well organized synopsis, but hopefully some of the points he is wrestling with are apparent.)

So I have these theories and questions running through my head and here I am walking with Gabriella and explaining to her how I have come to understand the Irish cultural elements within my family and how I want to understand my family, my heritage, and myself by trying to understand how I could've not realized until recently that my family dynamic is palpably Irish. I am trying to understand the need to belong, to identify, and what that means when I am not sure 'Irish' is an accurate label: I am a citizen of the United States of America who had family from Ireland. And yet I feel differently about Irish history than I do about the histories of other countries and cultures.

The most difficult and wonderful part of all this is the affinity I feel for my grandmother. I have gotten to know her more since she had her strokes and since she died than I did before her health changed. Mostly, I have learned about her from my uncle Philip and his stories and experiences. I have looked at her pictures and wondered how she became the woman I knew. And when I recognize similarities between us, I wonder about the generational cycles and how far the similarities go. I wonder if I am confronting in my own way issues she also confronted. I wonder how much more I could've learned if I had thought to ask earlier.

When I read about Ireland, I feel an ache in my heart and I wonder how these political and social changes eventually made it worth the dangers of traveling across the ocean and relocating to an unknown place in order to fulfill a dream of something more fulfilling or promising than what they left behind. And I wonder if my desire to understand who I am and how I feel about a label of a country who doesn't recognize me as one of its own relates to an unnamed Irishness in the culture of my family. I wonder if the ways of interacting and joking and sharing within my family (immediate and extended) are the result of previous generations who started a new life in a new place without feeling a need to label their way of living with a nationalism despite the shared foundation.

So I guess I am still working it out, still don't know. I do know it has a lot to do with honoring the sacrifices that allowed me to become an independent and ambitious woman with a strong sense of loyalty and duty. And, in my attempt at honoring my family from days gone by, I will try to understand their stories so I can share them with others.

My Sixth Sense

I realize it's cliche, but it's the best way I can articulate it right now. (A la Haley Joel Osment) I miss my people.

It's not that Ireland isn't lovely and it isn't a case of not meeting interesting people. But I am keenly aware of the wonderful and inspiring individuals I know and cherish. And I feel like I have a roster of these faces and connected memories going through my head as I walk around or meet new folks. And it's comforting, to have you all in my head and in my heart.

But I still miss you.

It's crazy how much I appreciate when I meet someone like Stephen or Gabriella or Noel. (I miss Noel already!) It's great to have some new faces and memories to add to the roster, though. And it reinforces how fortunate I am to have a precedent for greatness in the company I keep so I know a great person when I find one.

Living on a Prayer

It must be told that the DJ last night was possibly the worst I've ever heard. His "mixing" from song to song could only have been worse if there was silence. Actually, that may have been an improvement to the desecration of songs by the painful overlapping with different beats and tones, even different lyrics going at once.

He did at one point have a little string of songs that were fun and we really wanted to dance so we tolerated the bad transitions. And we're dancing and rocking out. There's a group of girls next to me with the pile of purses in the middle of their circle, but there aren't enough of them to complete the circle as large as they were trying for it to be AND they weren't sober enough to maintain the circle. (I looked at them and heard Dane Cook saying, "F*** guys tonight! Let's just dance!")

It's good craic at this point. Some of the guys from the postgrad posse showed up and we're having a laugh and then it happened: I heard the intro I know so well. And I see the faces of these guys light up, too. Especially this one guy who's just grand (Padraic, I think). And we're all singing at the top of our lungs while we jump around and dance to Bon Jovi. And when it gets to the big guitar riffs, I'm flanked by three or four drunk Irishmen doing air guitar. (I thought about doing the air tambourine, but I opted to just take in the hilarity of the moment instead.) And the next song was the Clash "Should I Stay or Should I Go" and that was brilliant, too. And then it was some song I didn't know, but they were all still bouncing and rocking out and it was weird to have been so completely in the loop for five or ten minutes and then realize I am in a completely different country with a different history of popular (or guilty-pleasure) music.

Still, it's nice to know that there are folks in Ireland who know the glory and grandeur of rocking out to "Living on a Prayer."

These Amazing Women!

Trinity College Dublin is some kind of nexus for amazing women. I have met some wonderfully vibrant and centered ladies here. Last night was a going-away celebration for Shelly, one of the ladies. She'll be back in December and, hopefully, will start her PhD in the spring. So it was a fun evening without the emotional turmoil of long-term good-byes.

I had multiple exciting and interesting conversations. I think it's a good sign that I have already found other postgraduates who are succeeding in their research and writing. The postgrad reading room will be really neat. It is like doing the grad program in Santa Cruz when there were six of us in the computer lab until obscene hours and for obscene numbers of consecutive hours in order to finish our papers except there is a lot more space (multiple rooms), no music, and less explosions of conversations about theory. Although there is a lot of smoking outside with the outbursts. And there are more students working there. It's like a not-so-secret society. But you have to have a card to get into the 1937. So it's kinda elite. No undergrads allowed!

Wednesday, September 27, 2006

Gabriella: a singular lady

I have been fortunate enough to be taken under the wing of Gabriella, a woman who just finished the M.Phil. program and is staying on to complete her PhD. She is the main assistant/organizer behind the conference my prof. is hosting and I am her assistant. She has introduced me to a few lovely ladies who are also postgraduates. She's showing me good restaurants (Caife Úna) and good study habits. I have no doubt that I will slip right into a routine of study when classes begin in October. We've had some great chats about theater and standards of production, of performance, of analysis.

Gabriella is teaching me some Italian including curse words in which she is staggeringly proficient. Much like my mother, you wouldn't guess this talent from one encounter or by seeing her. She's beautiful, elegant, and charming. And she can let loose the most poetic torrent of words when it suits her, which isn't often except for effect.

I'm really fortunate to have met her. She is a great role model for this program and for life in Dublin. And she is great company. I feel appreciated and welcome.

Crappuccino is more like it

For those who have had the pleasure of quality espresso, you know that a short-pull shot can be naturally sweet and smooth, so much so that sugar would ruin it. If you've had this experience, you've probably also experienced lots of terrible shots. Mediocre espresso can be masked slightly by adding foam or milk or a combination of both. But only slightly.

After being spoiled by the excellent foam that Dan makes, I got back into espresso drinks. A macchiato or espresso shot are really only worth it when you know the shot will be excellent. Otherwise, I feel like adding more milk will help cut the bitterness of a long-pull shot or other issue. So I will opt for a cappuccino on occasion. Plus, it's fun to see which places do decent foam and which ones look like dry dish-soap bubbles.

In Dublin, I have managed to have five of the crappiest cappuccinos in recent history. I'd stop, but now it's this morbid fascination with bad foam and bitter or overly-acidic espresso. It's sick, but I just keep trying new places and torturing my palate. I'm sure I'll reach a breaking point eventually. There's really only so much torture my palate can take... I may take a small hiatus for my other morbid fascination: bland and bodiless soy(a) milk.

The Conference That Ate My Brain

I have discovered how quickly I can slip into Manic Student mode. Thanks in no small part to Gabriella, the PhD candidate who is the main support/organizer on the conference my prof is hosting. She will work for twelve hours in the 1937 Reading Room (the postgraduate haven and self-torture chamber). So I have slipped into these crazy hours of staring at a computer. I try to do my little stretches and whatnot to minimize the headaches and neck-aches and brain-aches, but I think it's all a bit inevitable after six hours let alone ten or twelve. The bonus is feeling unintelligible within my own head.

It's amazing that I can immerse myself in the assorted tasks of researching insulated coffee dispensers, finding an appropriate map for information packets, locating acceptable folders for the aforementioned information packets, compose press release-type materials, proof emails... it never seems to end. But it will. Next week. A few days after the conference is over and the dust has settled.

And then I will start classes!

Caife Úna

If any of you make it to Dublin, I will take you to this great little restaurant just south of Trinity College Dublin. It's on Kildare Street in the basement of a larger building. The gal who owns it, Úna, is young, friendly, and focused. All the staff speaks Irish and English. The menu is always in both languages. And the food is so good! It's my new favorite place for a nice environment and high quality food. The atmosphere is really cozy, too. It's really great to support a restaurant that is the realization of a dream.

Monday, September 25, 2006

Finished with the Fringe

The Dublin Fringe Festival is officially finished. Last night was the last performance and today they moved out of the Temple Bar information office and back to their headquarters. I told the Box Office Manager, a fabulous fellow by the name of Jamie, that I would come by and help clean if I could manage it. After a day of meetings for the Interrogating Antigone conference, I was about to head home when I realized they may still be cleaning up. The idea of completing something concrete was too good to pass up.

Turns out, Jamie was the only one who turned up to clean. (I think everyone else was hung over or still drunk from last night's festivities.) He was almost done so I mostly stood next to stuff while he stacked it at the curb until we moved it into a taxi and then did the opposite at the destination. I didn't feel altogether useful, but it was something.

And then Jamie took me out for tea and cake. We chatted and laughed for a bit, learning all sorts of unexpected things about each other. By the time we made if from opera to body modifications, he dubbed it a free-form conversation (like jazz, but more entertaining).

It was a wonderful end to a wonderful experience. I told him that I would come work for him anytime and, if I can't, I'll send him some worthwhile folks.

Saturday, September 23, 2006

Enjoy those Veggies, California!

I have noticed since I arrived here in Ireland that I took for granted the abundance of quality, fresh produce in the San Francisco area. Yes, I was spoiled by working Farmer's Markets. I know that. But not only is produce at the stores not the same, most restaurants don't use veggies in dishes. Case in point: I got chicken curry and rice for dinner tonight. It was the classic yellow curry for over here (not Thai-style with coconut milk) with chicken and some onions. And that's it. No veggies other than some onions. And that makes me sad.

I guess I am officially a grown-up now.

My first Tea Brack

I know those of you "in the know" of the culture over here are wondering about two things: 1. my Guiness consumption, and 2. my tea consumption. And the truth is that I partake in each a few times a week, more tea than Guiness overall, but not usually multiple pints of tea in one sitting.

I decided it was time to try a Tea Brack which is, as far as I can tell, like coffee cake, but more dense than spongy. So more like a dense banana bread, less pineapple-upside-down-cakey and more fruit-cakey. There's a little bakery just up the block that I will go into. It reminds me a little of Bakesale Betty (and they sell Sticky Toffee Pudding!) so I'll treat myself once in a while to something.

Rather than get the original flavor, I opted for their new one: Apricot Pecan with chocolate. She invited feedback because it is new and they'll be reworking it. Typical bakery protocol and I do like to feel helpful so I take it. And it's not that it isn't good, but I am not crazy about chocolate in my bread. I'll go for it once in a while, but I have an entire Tea Brack (which is the shape and weight of a brick...hmmm...) to work through here.

Next time, I'll go for the original. But that may take me a few weeks before I feel up to it. I've had plenty of Tea Brack for this week.

Are we having fun yet?

This one-sided conversation is kinda weird, folks. Some of you have mentioned in emails that you are enjoying reading my blog, but there's a whole lot of other folks who may or may not be reading it. And even those of you who have read it, what are you giving me, huh? Am I a little monkey, here to dance for you and entertain you? Dance little monkey! Dance! Bwa ha ha ha!

That's cool. I don't mind. Just give me some requests or something. I'm making it up as I go along. Feel free to request something along the way. Such as "what ever happened to The Kliemaks?" or "did Steve get a job teaching?" or "have you heard any good pub stories?" If I'm writing for your enjoyment and insights into my life, I can at least write something that's interesting to you.

But maybe I'm already doing it! Oh yeah...I'm just intuitively telling you everything you want to know and blowing your mind with my crazy, wild life...okay, maybe not "blowing" your mind, maybe just clogging it with silly and useless information.

I guess no news must be good news. Some of you would definitely tell me if my blog was lame. Alright, I guess we're having fun. Good. I'm glad we cleared that up.

Muffin Sightings

Are you familiar with the theory that people are like muffins? The theory goes that there are a finite amount of combinations of ingredients so you are bound to encounter someone who reminds you of an entirely different someone, but who shares so many qualities (or flavors?) that you almost mistake this new someone for the other someone; those two similar someones are the same kind of muffin!

With that in mind, I've had my first muffin sightings this week. (Stephen reminds me of folks, but wasn't a muffin sighting.)

The first two happened together. I was working the box office for a one-man show at Dublin Dental Hospital. (The play was brilliant, by the way. The playwright was there and sent me home with a copy of the script and I will visit him and his theater company when I visit Derry.)

The playwright reminded me of my preceptor Paul from UC Santa Cruz. Same wonderful smile and laugh. Really generous with his energy. He tested the waters when I first walked into the lobby, but became easy going as soon as he felt confident I was on the ball and could keep things running smoothly.

The second was the actor in the show who reminded of my friend John from Santa Cruz/San Francisco. Both men have a smoothness, suaveness about them when they're comfortable, confident, and having a casual conversation. And it's so easy and enjoyable to be around that energy, that willingness to interact and seemingly not worry about how he's being perceived. And both are artists with keen abilities to articulate themselves (John is a writer and the other is an actor, obviously).

And the combination, while being a somewhat improbable combination, worked and it made me want to introduce the California muffins.

The other muffin sighting wasn't really a muffin sighting. Much like Stephen, it was more an awareness of a combination of qualities that set me at ease, reminding me of those who are dear to me. This happened in a conversation with Noel after the show the other night as we walked down the block to catch taxis home. He mentioned during the show that night about how if it weren't for the love of his mother and a few of his mates, he would've offed himself, but that they helped him ignore the crap around him and keep going. And he talked about dancing for her and making her laugh and about what a wonderful woman she was and what a wonderful relationship they had. And it made me think of my uncle Phil (my Special Person, by the way) and stories he's told me about entertaining his mom and making her laugh. I told Noel about Phil and we continued to talk about life and family and finding people who are worth your time, your energy, your life.

The best thing about these Muffin Sightings and quasi-muffin moments, is that I feel like there is a pleasant melding of worlds, as if the muffins I'm remembering are here with me as I meet this new muffin. And I know with certainty: this person is special and worth spending a little time with because they remind me of this other amazing person.

Thursday, September 21, 2006

Funny Story Recently Remembered

I was chatting with my dear friend Suzi when I realized that there's funny story from when I moved into my flat that I neglected to include here for your reading enjoyment. I shall recount it now.

The morning after moving in, I am thrilled to take my first shower in my new home and it's gonna be a nice, practically scalding hot shower, just how I like it! But the water won't get warm. I wait, patiently, but expectantly, but it still doesn't get hot after about five minutes. I already had a small list of things to mention to the building manager (no door on the freezer in my frig/freezer unit, this drawer is broken, what's that light switch go to, etc.) so I add "no hot water" to the list and go on with my day. (I would rather be stinky than have a miserable, cold shower. At least that day. I didn't want to feel like lock-jaw was setting in just to feel clean.)

When I get home later, my building manager had stopped in and left a note explaining stuff he'd checked, stuff he'd fixed, and stuff he'd get to later. On the list was an explanation of the mysterious light switch that has a red light above it: it controls the water heater! Two problems solved at once. (Although I hadn't made the connection, it made sense because the wall heaters all have a switch next to them in order to get them going.)

Later in the week, after I have purchased some kitchen supplies and when I decide to finally cook in my apartment, I pull out a frozen egg and put it in the pan to defrost. It's an electric range, with which I am relatively unfamiliar, so I put it on low and figure by the time it heats up, my egg might be defrosted. I keep checking it and it's slowly melting, but it isn't cooking very fast. Actually, it's not cooking at all because the range isn't getting warm. Another thing to add to the list! And then I notice a switch on the wall behind the range. This one doesn't have a light attached, but I think there may be a trend here. Sure enough, I flip the switch and the light next to the burner icon is illuminated. I cook my egg and eat it and then go turn on the water heater so I have hot water with which to wash my dirty dishes.

**For those wondering about why I had frozen eggs, it's not part of any fear that I won't be able to have children someday. When my mini fridge doesn't have a cover over the freezer section, the entire refrigerator drops to the temperature of the freezer, even on the lowest setting. So all my produce, eggs, cheese, butter....everything froze. The produce was ruined, but the eggs, butter, and cheese seemed to hold on. Of course, now that I have a door over the freezer area, I still find stuff freezes if I put it on the first or second shelf. Actually, anything in there is likely to freeze; I'm still figuring out how to work that out. (Mick, you're otter pops and ice cream would be perfect over here!)

Tuesday, September 19, 2006

Dancing Queen

I had a wonderful time tonight. Apart from a small delay before the show (I ran an errand for the Fringe after doing box office at a brilliant show and before going to the dancing gig), the whole evening went smoothly. He was thrilled that I wore a dress and looked the part. Noel and I practiced a bit beforehand. I'm really glad I did those salsa lessons while I lived in Oakland because I'm a bit better at adapting to different leads.

It went well. Noel said the performance was even better than the rehearsals, which was true. We had a grand time. I may get to do it again before the run is over! Afterwards we had a pint at the bar upstairs and I met some of his friends with whom he lived in London back in the 60s. They were lovely, too. (One of them lived in San Francisco, in the Sunset, at the same time I was living there. Small world, huh?) Noel was a perfect host and took care that I got home safely.

For those who are curious about the show, you can check out a review from when he performed in the Edinburgh Fringe (or this one).

Megan's impending Irish debut

I volunteered again tonight with the Dublin Fringe Festival. Most of the time, I end up running between venues dropping off tickets and whatnot and then work one of the later shows for which the scheduled volunteer never appears. Tonight started out no differently, but by the end of the evening, there were excess stand-by volunteers for the shows that needed covering. I jumped at the chance to see my fourth fringe show! It turns out that one of the shows I wanted to see was one of the two shows that needed a box office person so I opted to both see the show and to work it. So I felt useful and indulged at once.

The show was hilarious! The man performing in this one man show Shake, Rattle, and Noel is Noel Faulkner. He has lived quite a load of experiences that brought him from Ireland to New York to San Francisco to Columbia (back to San Francisco back to New York back to Ireland) and include performing in San Francisco with Robin Williams in Endgame, Rosencrantz and Guildenstern Are Dead, and others as Mr. Williams' stand-up comedy career was taking off. Some of Noel's family still live in the San Francisco area.

As we were chatting before the show he asked if I could dance and if I'd like to be in the show tomorrow night. He said I should watch the show and talk with him afterwards. (There is a brief moment of a little dance in the sixties.) And so I will be that dancing gal tomorrow night!

It will be my first time getting dressed up since I arrived and I cannot think of a better occasion!

The humor of Stephen

So I hadn't really spent much time with Steve recently because we've both been busy. Even when we went to the movie, he was kinda spun over the mixed up days and we didn't chat much. After he finished his first day teaching in Ireland (HOORAY!) I took him for a pint and we had a lovely evening. Over some Bacon (flavored) Fries and Pringles, somehow the idea of insulting came up and Stephen says, "I wouldn't insult you, but I may out pepper you."

It took me a while and he ultimately had to explain it. And then I laughed. The craic was mighty!

Monday, September 18, 2006

The Official Time Change

I finally decided I was tired of all my emails being stamped with PST. That's what pushed me over the edge. Today my little noggin cannot handle adjusting the time. So I have changed the time on my computer.

I do realize most of you probably don't care and that's fine by me. But it's my blog! So I can write whatever occurs to me and then you get to decide if you want to read it. It's a nice system. I write into an unknown void and then wonder if anyone actually read this stuff. And you have the power to decide how much of my randomness you want to invite into your consciousness. What fun!

Sunday, September 17, 2006

A full, but thoroughly satisfying day

Yesterday was a great day from beginning to end, although some of you may question my standards of "great" by the end of this post. =)

I started the day by getting up at 5 am, sending a few emails to friends and then chatting with my man after his softball game. Thanks to the time difference, I got to be the end of his day while he was the beginning of mine. It was a much needed and appreciated extended conversation.

I then worked on drafts for my personal statements for graduate school applications for a few hours and was feeling quite pleased with my progress. In the afternoon, I met a gal to see the new Almodovar film Volver.

After the film, I had a lovely crepe and read more of High Fidelity by Nick Hornsby. Between the film and the book, my thoughts were filled with laughter and love and death and all sorts of emotionally charged stuff. And I was really happy to be living so fully and feeling so strongly on such a lovely, sunny afternoon.

I volunteered at the Dublin Fringe Festival for a few hours which meant an hour walking to different venues making deliveries and then going to work the box office for a late show. At the show, I had a wonderful chat with a gentleman who worked at Liberty Hall about where to visit in Ireland. He was born and raised in Dublin (which is surprisingly uncommon these days) and he told me about Bang Bang and 40 Coats John (or some other name that escapes me) and some other characters about town from when he was growing up. It was a good laugh. And then I took the bus home, finished High Fidelity.

And then I cried. Not all night, but for a little while when I got home as I processed how wonderful and interesting my day had been. (It helps that my cycle is kicking in extra hormones and cramps.) I'm really glad I have been able to make this journey and am really excited for what my future will be. If my present is any indication, it will be intense and challenging and fulfilling.

Incidentally, I am still decompressing and processing all these thoughts about death and family and sacrifice and love and generosity and injury and growth...typical stuff for me, right?

Americana while abroad

Steve and I went to see Talladega Nights: The Ballad of Ricky Bobby on Friday (which was kinda funny because he thought it was Saturday). Although I had heard mixed stuff about it, he was super excited so I figured I'd have a good time and I was admittedly curious.

I laughed a lot! They showcased most of the stuff for which Americans are ridiculed including homophobia, inarticulate bravado, and disrespect of pretty much any and all authority figures. And it was, I think, aware of the jokes it was making and at whose expense. Most of them were eventually turned around for that comic payoff, particularly the refusal to partake in a platonic kiss between men.

I kinda doubt this will change any of your minds; if you wanted to see it, you probably still will and if you didn't, you probably won't. But I enjoyed myself and, although it was quite lengthy, it was a nice way to spend an afternoon.

Thursday, September 14, 2006

The Lifesaver and Decay Cabaret

So I am the "lifesaver" in this situation because I have managed to appear just when the Fringe Fesival folks needed an extra hand. I am a back-up box office worker and stress-reducer thus far.

And, after working partial shifts for two different shows, I was given a complimentary ticket to see Decay Unlimited (A Cabaret), which I *really* wanted to see. (Rococo Risque gang would've loved it!) It was funny and deliberately awkward at points. The whole thing was about death and decomposition and celebrating the composition and laughing in the face of death. So there are lots of these themes throughout, including the fact that the cabaret performance itself is seemingly falling apart from the very beginning. (We were let into the auditorium and then two performers came out and said we weren't supposed to be in there yet and got house management to usher us all back out of the theater for about two minutes. I think it was part of the show...)

I also got my "I heart Fringe" buttons today. =) AND I was told that I will probably get a T-shirt for volunteering. AND it may be hot pink, which somehow makes it more appealing.

Wednesday, September 13, 2006

For those actually following my internet woes...

I think the search for service is over. After much heartache, stress, and searching, I have ultimately decided to stay with my current provider. In order to get DSL, which I figured would give me the best connection for VOIP services, I would have to get a phone line set up and that will cost 122 euro, roughly. And even then I am not guaranteed that I can get DSL here in my flat.

Rather than go down that seemingly troublesome road, I am staying with my current service. (It has been notably better since the approx. 32 hour lack of service while they did an overhaul of the system.)

Thanks to all who talked me down from my terror of being disconnected and isolated! Here's hoping those days are gone...

"Here's €50; you seem trustworthy."

or: How Megan Worked the Box Office

I had emailed the Dublin Fringe Festival about volunteering, but hadn't been assigned any duties yet, probably because I was very open-ended in my offer for assistance and it proved too vague to be helpful. I was on my way to a 6pm performance piece when I spotted the Fringe Festival information office. I popped in to say hello and to check about how to proceed and be scheduled. The gentleman with whom I spoke asked what my interests were and I said, "Box office. Or selling programs." He eyed me for a moment and looked slightly troubled before asking me if I wanted to work right now.

So he hands me the requisite information and tickets and sends me on my way, but not before commenting that I seemed trustworthy. And that it was in my best interests not to run off with the change money because I will get to see lots of free theater if I keep volunteering and that is worth more than 50 euro. I had to agree with him on that point.

And the gal whom I replaced, she appeared just as the show was starting. She had to work and then couldn't find the theater and was quite frazzled. I agreed to take her early shift tomorrow so she wouldn't stress about being late again. So tomorrow, I will get to see the dance performance "Automatic Bastard" in exchange for my volunteer efforts. I love theater!

(For those wondering about the show I worked on this evening, I didn't end up watching it because I kept the Box Office open for late seating and then decided I would rather see it in its entirety. The bonus is I now get a free ticket to a show for helping out. Sweet!)

Tuesday, September 12, 2006

The Wonderful World of Oz

I went to my second show of the Dublin Fringe Festival. It was an ambitious drag show send up of The Wizard of Oz combining the film, The Wiz, Wicked, and some of the group's own invention. It started late, but still ran more than two-and-a-half hours. I bought the program in case anyone wants to check it out. I was lured in by the promo which promised gender-bending, drag performance, and musical fun. (If only there had been juggling...)

So it was something I was glad I saw, more so because I will go check out the drag king and queen shows. The two drag kings as The Wizard and The Cowardly Lion were definitely the highlights of the show. Iris Meehan (as the Cowardly Lion) is the current Alternative Miss Ireland.

Who knows? By year's end I may enter into one of the shows. I could wear a mustache!

There's no business like show business!

I went to my first play in Dublin last night. It was part of the Dublin Fringe Festival. This group, The Candidatos, are from Montana, USA, and performed a piece entitled I'm Sorry & I'm Sorry. It was described as part Marx Brothers, part Cohen Brothers, part Cirque du Soliel. It was all brilliant! They managed to take classic clowning, add some acrobatics, and mix in theater commentary while maintaining a constantly engaging and fulfilling piece.

It was their preview last night and tickets were buy one, get one, so I brought Steve along. He is not a regular theater goer, although he does enjoy the occasional show. He loved it, too.

Now I feel it is my duty to encourage you to see them at any international (or national) festival you can. It is well worth it.

Monday, September 11, 2006

Bei mir bist du schon


I was walking down Grafton Street (the trendy shopping area, south of the River Liffey and Trinity College) and saw some buskers (street performers). There are many around town and are almost always worth a stop. (There was a great rockabilly guy singing "16 Tons" and "Ring of Fire" last week! Too bad I wasn't taking pictures yet...)

ANYWAY, this particular group was playing "Bei mir bist du schon" and it was fabulous! I stood and listened until they finished the song, thinking the entire time of my dear friend Ksiel because he can sing the entire song in its original Yiddish. These performers sang in English; it was probably the Andrew Sisters version.

For those who may be wondering about my previous notable busker experience, I was remiss and did not go in search of The Kliemaks last weekend. But I will fulfill my duty and make it to Temple Bar next weekend in hopes of a third sighting...

Taxi Strike in Dublin

Not sure how big this is in the news around the world, but there is some chaos over here in the form of a taxi strike. (For those Gaelic speakers/readers I'm talking about the tacsai.) I took a few photos of the line of taxis parked on O'Connell Street. This is significant because it is the main shopping area and the main driving thoroughfare of Dublin. I also took a picture of the back up of buses south of the River Liffey about two or three blocks away.

You may be wondering why they would decide to strike. Evidently the person who makes decisions about the rules by which the taxi drivers operate (not in government as I thought) refuses to meet with the taxi driver association to discuss the impending changes. Some of the taxi drivers do not agree with all the impending changes and, therefore, are taking steps to encourage conversation. They first stuck for half a day the morning of the All Ireland Hurling Finals. They were on strike today for potentially 24 hours and it may continue indefinitely if they don't get to have a meeting with the aforementioned official. (The threat is that they will boycott the Ryder Cup!)

Needless to say, I walked around Dublin today. Luckily, I meandered my way home and got inside about twenty minutes before the rain started.

Sunday, September 10, 2006

Internet issues

I signed on with an internet provider that uses a wireless modem. I have been having spotty service since I got it and today I couldn't get the modem to hold a signal at all. Now I am pretty sure I am canceling this service and going in search of another. This means I may be without access at home for a few days. I will try to make it to wireless cafes at some point each day to keep up on email, but please know there may be a delay in my responses.

I think I will go back to the old fashioned broadband service instead of this new-fangled wireless modem thingy...

Omelets and 80s

It's Sunday afternoon and the end of my first house guest's visit. It went extremely well as far as I can tell. Steve is possibly the best house guest I've ever had. He made food, he washed dishes, and he brought movies. We laughed lots and went on a three hour wandering to the Superquinn (one of Ireland's grocery chains). He even went with me to the Spar (kinda like 7/11) last night when I had a serious monkey-brain sugar craving. The weekend culminated in eating omelets and listening to 80s tunes. Good times!

Friday, September 08, 2006

Welcome Back, Steve!

The Great Stephen will be back in Dublin before noon today.

He is here in Ireland to teach for a few months and then travel some more before returning to his teaching position in Canada. While in glorious Galway, he met some Australians who told him how to get into substitute teaching here in Ireland. Understandably, there are more jobs here in Dublin, so he's coming back.

Let the rejoicing commence!

Thursday, September 07, 2006

My family

For those who don't know, I have an amazing family. Every time I stop to consider this clan of mine, I am stunned by the neverending generousity, guidance, and support. As the only person not in the San Franciso area, it is really interesting the time and ways I feel connected.

The other day, we did a Skype conference call with five different computers and eight participants. It was almost like hanging out in the same room with the multiple conversations and an abundance of laughter. I can't imagine how much more difficult this time abroad would be without the wonders of technology.

Mostly, though, I feel loved. No matter what I do, no matter where I go. And everyone keeps reminding me that it's not so much what I do, but who I am. And I am part of my family. And that makes me really happy.

Guiness milkshake

Sort of. Not really. This great gal I met at the hostel (Luna) introduced me to Guiness and black currant last night. She says she's only found bartenders in Ireland who know how to make it. It's some yummy stuff. Takes the bitter aftertaste away and replaces it with a smooth, currant sweetness. Maybe those of you privvy to good Irish pubs in San Francisco will find they make it there. Otherwise, come visit and I'll take you 'round to M.B. Slattery for a pint!

Wednesday, September 06, 2006

Smoked Cod not the same as Fresh Cod

Now this may seem obvious and I do realize there is a difference, but I didn't really think through the difference in flavor. I stopped at a fish and chips take away and they were out of fresh cod. So I opted for the smoked cod. The jury is still out, but I think I really wanted the fresh cod with lots of vinegar and salt. The smoked cod is saltier in a smokey way...hmmm...yeah. That's about it: salty in a smokey way.

Anyway, the chips were decent as was the fish, even if I did wish it were less smokey and more vinegar-y.

Time on my hands?

When I say I am a student, most folks ask when classes start. When I reply that classes start in October, most of these same "folks" comment on how I have some time to fill. I usually have agreed until I remembered that I was hoping to do my graduate school applications before classes start. So much for that leisurely, self-indulgent getting acclimated period!

Really, the timing is perfect. I have a place to live, I know where to get food at reasonable prices, and I have the love and support of my friends and family. Frankly, I think I am well positioned to take over the World. (Hmmm...if only I could find a mouse with vision to help me realize this dream...)

Tuesday, September 05, 2006

Megan has a home!

I signed my lease yesterday and got internet today. I'm still getting settled. I haven't even unpacked everything yet. But I did get a full night's sleep last night. In my neighborhood (Rathgar, on the south side of Dublin), there is a bakery, a butcher, a few liquor stores (called off-license stores), and a number of restaurants (some upscale and some low key).

I was going to post my address, but I realized that may not be the most responsible thing to do. I'm going to think about it a little more. Meantime, email me if you want it.

So long, Steve!

Steve relocated to Galway yesterday. He was one of the first folks I met here in Dublin and the first one I miss. (He was job hunting while I napped on the couch at the hostel.) He is a vibrant, hilarious, and generous fellow and I can't imagine thinking of Dublin without thinking of him. He showed me the Celt (the pub where I had my first pint) and allowed me to tag along on his exploration of the city.

We have similar tastes in pubs and wandering, although he is a bit more enthusiastic about the dilapidated places. I wish I could do justice to Steve in all his glory because he is a fabulous person. He takes some of the best vacation photos I have ever seen; he makes me want to travel more. Hopefully, he'll send me a photo of himself so I can post it. He made me laugh and think and enjoy this city that was new to me.

And now he's off to bigger and more exciting things on the western coast. The only good thing about Steve being outside of Dublin is that I have someone to visit. And I plan to visit.

Sunday, September 03, 2006

My first Hurling match

There was a big to do today with the hurling match between Kilkenny and Cork. I went to Lord Edward, the oldest seafood restaurant in Dublin that Steve and I visited on Friday, to watch the match. It was great craic (good fun)! (I was rooting for Cork as that's where my family comes from.) At half time, a gentleman from the pub finally approached me, asking why I was on my own. I explained I only recently moved here and was enjoying my first match. He was quite sweet and wished me well.

When the match was finished, Barney came back over to me and invited me to have a drink with his partner, Katherine, and their friend Joe. So I had my third pint of the afternoon out of courtesy. Barney told me about his six children, one of whom, Pamela, studied in New York before relocating to Melbourne as an engineer. It was lovely. He encouraged me to come back Sunday next for the football match between Mayo and Kerry. (I may root for Mayo despite Kerry being closer to my family in Cork.)

Barney gave me lots of advice about keeping myself safe and assured me we'd have good banter Sunday next at the football match (Irish football, not soccer), especially if I go for Kerry while he goes for Mayo. It was a great afternoon. =)

Saturday, September 02, 2006

Band sighting #2

I just ran out for a late dinner and saw that brass band again. The name on the drum is The Kliemaks, but I couldn't find them online. Next time, I will hang out until they finish their set and move down the block to chat with one of them to find out if they have regular gigs besides playing the Temple Bar street.

For those who were wondering, they played "Mama Mia" and "Hey Big Spender" tonight.

I touched a mummy!

Yes, that's right. Evidentally, the limestone tombs under St. Michan's church are the perfect environment for preservation. Combined with the constant temperature of coolness underground and the methane released by the lower soil, the limestone absorbs the moisture in the air and things kepts down there preserve well. (This is also the church that supposedly inspired Bram Stoker to write Dracula.)

It is illegal to open coffins, but, due to the old practice of stacking coffins, some of the coffins broke, collapsing the tower of them, and leading to some opened caskets. So a few mummified bodies are on display. One of them, I huge Crusader, was positioned with his hand outside the casket so folks could touch it for luck. So his huge hand is still kinda sticking up and we got to go inside the tomb to touch it (as long as we promised to give him 15% if we won the lottery).

I might have to go play some more Blackjack tonight...

A Night on the Town

I finally did a little roaming around the city last night. A guy I met at the hostel named Stephen has been a great companion during this week of craziness. I won't go into too much detail now as I plan to do a more thorough Stephen-exclusive post after he leaves for Galway on Monday. The most important thing to know is he is someone who enjoys exploring and getting lost and wandering.

So we went an played Blackjack for a while; I am down 5 euro, but came back from only having 5 euro so I feel pretty good about it. Then we walked westward past some pubs he'd visited earlier in the week and, ultimately, found Dublin's oldest seafood restaurant with a great little pub that was just my speed (and Steve's too). Lots of locals hanging out, nothing fancy or flashy.

After a leisurely pint, we made our way toward the Temple Bar district which I had not yet visited. It's definitely the more artsy-trendy part of town. (Lots of old buildings converted into hip restuarants, Bono of U2 owns a hotel there, clearly where the artists could afford to live in the not so distant past before it's hipness prevented them from being able to afford staying in the neighborhood.) We wandered past a guy doing fire dancing (not the most experienced, but decent) and then he was followed by two guys juggling fire (!!!). We stayed for a bit, mostly because I am a juggling enthusiast (as some of you know), but they were not good so we moved on fairly quickly. We then found a huge crowd following a brass band down the street. They stopped on a corner and started to play. They played some Grease tunes, Dusty Springfield, "I'm So Excited" and a few others. (They all wore suits and had some choreographed horn turning during songs. They're no Lord Loves, but it was a nice diversion.)

It was AWESOME! I am going to keep going back on Friday nights until I can find out if they have a CD or how to find them playing gigs.

Friday, September 01, 2006

Megan has a phone!

I have a phone now! I do not plan on making many calls, but for those who feel inclined to call, I'll give the number. Do keep in mind that I am currently 8 hours ahead of Californians (and, I believe, 9 hours when daylight savings ends in October).

From the USA, dial:
011 353 1 085 776 7112

I don't know how reception will be at my apartment, but I will let you know once I move in there.

Already put to work!

So part of my Day 2 excitement was meeting with a profesor. His name is Stephen Wilmer (writing is under S.E. Wilmer) and he is from the US originally. Alma Martinez connected me with him when I applied for the Fulbright. So I met with him yesterday to discuss the program and to help me understand what I needed to do in preparation.

In less than TEN minutes, I had already agreed to assist on a conferene he is hosting at Trinity on October 6 and 7. (http://www.tcd.ie/Drama/#newsArticle1) It's all on Antigone. An international panel of theorists from a variety of fields will present on papers s/he have written. So I am now assisting Gabry, an M.Phil. student from last year who is starting the PhD program this fall. She will be back on Sept. 11 and I think we'll kick things into gear at that point.

Fun stuff if anyone wants to take a little trip and hear some incredibly intelligent discussions on Antigone... I'll be there!

Day 2 and into Day 3

Quick funny things of note:
First night in the hostel, my roomies were 4 Italian guys (two named Mateo, two named Lorenzo). In the morning as they were getting ready and I was attempting to sleep longer, one of them kept changing his pants and was therefore in his bikini briefs. (I can think of a few of you who would've taken advantage...)

Second night, in the 18 bed room, a group of 5-6 guys (we think Romanian) came in around 4:45 in the morning, talking and laughing loudly, even turning on the overhead lights at one point which was greeted with various moans of displeasure from the huddled masses.


On a not so funny note, I am totally stressed about finding a place. This is even more difficult than UCSC off-campus searching. I have been trying to find a place for 500 euros (roughly $640), but that is mostly renting a room in a house with 3-5 other occupants and very little personal space/privacy. (This includes a converted basement that housed 4 and the room I saw was *tiny* and everyone in this basement abode walked THROUGH the room to go outside to the laundry. This was only 325 euros. What a bargain!)

I am starting to think about solo apartments/flats which seem to run 600-1,600 euros ($770-2,000) Obviously I am looking at the 600-900 euros end of the bracket. But competition for those places are also high. Most places are renting within hours of being posted. As I mentioned before, I am stressed about it.


In the mean time, I had my FIRST PINT last night with a group from the hostel. One guy, Ron (aka The Beast from the Middle East), was celebrating his last night in Dublin. We went to this great pub north of the Liffey where there was live music (aparently this pub has live music every night). So I had a Guiness and toasted to my loved ones at home.

At the pub, they had a poster of the statement seeking to break with England and, as expected, I started to tear up as I read it. I have been thinking lots about how much was risked in the past to follow a dream or to fight for what someone believed was fair/appropriate... and, when I do, I start to cry. Obviously I am high emotion right now. But my parents and Mike have been great in keeping the encouragement high and frequent.

So for now, I am getting through one day at a time. The internet is spotty here at the hostel so I may be a day or two responding to emails, but thanks to Sandrine and Suzi for sending messages. =)